In a few of my shots I ended up having some branches show up in the viewfinder so I adjusted the camera position to eliminate these distractions.
The translucent nature of the bubbles is perfect for backlighting.ĭistractions: Look beyond the bubble and see what else is in your frame. If you are using natural light choose your bubble blowing spot so as to provide the best light possible and avoid harsh shadows. Using coloured lamps or glow sticks can also create some interesting effects. In the first image ( Crystal Ball) I buried my LED headlamp in the snow to create the illuminated effect. Lighting: Experiment with different methods of lighting. This isn't a blog about composition, but here are some things to consider as you shoot However the bubble may move quite a bit if there is even the slightest breeze.)Īperture: f/4 - f/6.3 (For most shots I was trying to maintain a limited depth of field with a nice bokeh in the background.) ISO: 200 - 400 (Since I was using a tripod for most of the early morning shots I wasn't concerned about camera movement.
#Frozen bubble pop iso#
I usually shoot in Aperture Priority and adjust ISO to ensure I have a reasonable shutter speed to work with.
I started shooting in the dark and used my headlamp to light up the scene. The settings you choose will depend a great deal on the lighting and the overall look you are aiming for. Finally, based on my limited experience I have found that smaller bubbles (approximately 10 cm in diameter) work better than larger bubbles. I even had one bubble that kept its shape for over an hour. However, most of my attempts resulted in bubbles that lasted for several minutes. Expect many of them to burst before you can take your first shot. Also avoid a breezy location since the slightest air movements can pop your bubbles. This elevated position allowed me to set up my tripod, making composition a bit easier. I used the snow-covered railing around my deck. Now, dress warmly and find a location where you can set up your experiment.
0 kommentar(er)
